Bourgogne Aligote AOC, Vieilles Vignes, Domaine Rene Bouvier 2022

A masterclass in underdog elegance. The 2022 Vieilles Vignes Aligoté from Domaine Rene Bouvier transforms this often-overlooked grape into a taut, leesy powerhouse. Old vines yield concentrated green apple, pear skin, and white almond notes, while the vintage’s brightness sharpens its signature high-toned acidity. No oak – just flinty, chiseled tension on the finish.

Bring oysters or fried fish to the table immediately. This wine’s racy cut and faint hazelnut creaminess (from extended lees aging) make it a brilliant match for sole meunière, salt cod fritters, or even crispy calamari. For cheese, skip goat for young Comté – the Aligoté’s citrus snap lifts the nutty saltiness perfectly.

Try it with umami-rich vegetables or briney bites. Pour alongside roasted mushrooms on sourdough, pickled ramp deviled eggs, or steamed clams with garlic butter. The 2022’s extra ripeness also handles sushi (especially mackerel) with surprising grace. Serve very cold (8–10°C), and watch this old-vine beauty outshine many a village-level Chardonnay.